Best layout for solar panels on a T5 pop-top?

Been wrestling with this for a few weeks now. Got a 2019 T5.2 pop-top and I'm trying to work out the optimal panel arrangement before I commit to drilling holes and running wiring.

Currently looking at two approaches:

Option 1: Split layout
280W across the main roof (two 140W rigid panels), leaving space around the pop-top mechanism. Then another 100-150W on the pop-top itself when it's extended. My concern here is that the pop-top panels would only generate when camping, not while driving—bit inefficient.

Option 2: Consolidate on main roof
Stack the full 430W capacity on the main roof proper, avoiding the pop-top entirely. Cleaner install, no moving parts to worry about, but I'm conscious of the weight distribution and aerodynamics with that much panel area.

I'm running a Victron MPPT 100/30 with a 280Ah LiFePO₄ bank (Fogstar cells), so I've got decent charge capacity. Main use case is EV charging infrastructure work—I need consistent power for diagnostic equipment, not just auxiliary stuff. Realistically, I'm parked up most days, so roof real estate is premium.

Has anyone got practical experience with split configurations on a pop-top? I'm particularly interested in whether the pop-top wiring runs are a nightmare or manageable, and whether passive cooling becomes an issue with denser panel packing on the main roof in summer. Wind loading is a consideration too given the van's profile.

Cheers for any insights.

Have you considered the pop-top mechanism itself? I'm dealing with the same dilemma on mine and realised the roof panels need to clear the lifting struts when it's up. Caught that the hard way during planning.

A couple of questions that might help you decide:

• Are you going for rigid panels or flexible? The weight distribution matters more than people think on a pop-top
• What's your actual power draw? Seems obvious but I see loads of people cramming panels they don't need
• How often are you stationary vs moving around?

I'm running 400W rigid across the main roof and kept the pop-top clear. It's not maximised but the flexibility of being able to tilt the whole roof without worrying about panel clearance is worth it for me. Plus easier to inspect wiring.

What's your current setup looking like?

The pop-top mechanism is your mate's biggest headache there — once that roof's up, half your panels are pointing at the sky uselessly. I mounted mine in a T-shape: two across the fixed roof section and one running lengthways, leaves the pop-top area clear. Sounds daft but it actually works because you're not fighting the shadow from the raised section.

Also worth knowing: if you've got a Victron MPPT hiding in your van, it'll squeeze every last amp from an awkward configuration anyway. Just make sure your roof can handle the weight distribution — T5 roofs are sturdy but not magical.

Honestly though, a couple of 400W Fogstar panels flat-mounted beats trying to get clever with angles you can't reach for cleaning.

The pop-top is genuinely the constraint here, not the solution. I've been down this road on my own conversion, and the mechanical lift mechanism eats into your usable roof real estate something fierce.

What I'd suggest: maximise the fixed lower roof section instead. Two 400W rigid panels (Renogy or Fogstar quality) mounted forward of the pop-top mechanism will give you solid, unobstructed generation year-round. The pop-top itself is too compromised — you're either blocked by the mechanism when it's down, or you've got loose cables when it's up.

Run your wiring through the pop-top hinge area (sealed properly, mind) and down the interior walls. Route to a roof-mounted combiner if you're running multiple strings, then into your battery box below.

The real win is accepting you won't get massive solar on a T5. That's fine — design your consumption around a smaller system, use shore power at sites, and use that pop-top for ventilation instead. It's what it's actually good at.

What's your target daily consumption looking like? That'll tell you whether you even need to

Mate, just accept you're getting roughly 40% of a van roof's potential and plan accordingly—I've got 400W across my pop-top and it's genuinely fine for winter camping if your battery bank's decent. The real trick is mounting them before the pop-top sits, not after, because drilling through the mechanism is asking for expensive regrets. Stick your best-oriented panels on the main roof, use the pop-top for whatever's left, and don't bother with fancy tracking systems—you'll spend more time adjusting than generating. Victron MPPT controller and a decent lithium setup will do the heavy lifting anyway.

Have you mapped out your actual usage first? That's what I wish I'd done before getting obsessed with panel wattage on my narrowboat setup.

The pop-top constraint is real, but the bigger question is whether you're chasing solar for vanlife (topping up batteries between sites) or genuine off-grid self-sufficiency. Very different animals.

If you're mostly moving every few days, you might get away with less than you think — especially if you're not running heating/cooling. I'd suggest working backwards: what's your daily consumption in winter, and how many peak sun hours does your roof geometry actually get?

For the physical layout, I've seen some folk fit panels on the pop-top itself when it's up — uses the space smartly, though mounting brackets need proper engineering. Others go rigid panels on the main roof only and accept the seasonal trade-off.

What's your battery capacity at the moment, and what are you powering? That'll help clarify whether you're panel-limited or battery-limited.

The pop-top constraint is real, but there's a layout trick worth considering—I've got 600W split across my T5 roof and found that staggering panels actually helps more than you'd think. Rather than fighting for every cm², I went with three 200W panels: two on the main roof running length-wise, one on the pop-top itself (portrait orientation, positioned towards the centre).

The benefit? Better shading tolerance. If one section gets partially shadowed by a tree or your awning, you're not losing output from a single massive array. Each panel feeds its own MPPT input on my Victron 150/45, which is genuinely useful for a pop-top setup where orientation varies.

@RetiredNurse49's right about the 40% reality—accept it and size your battery/inverter accordingly rather than chasing panel numbers. What matters more is whether you're running lithium or lead-acid, and what your actual winter usage looks like.

Before drilling, map out your daily amp-hour draw. That'll tell you whether 300W or 600W is even necessary. Most people overestimate winter generation

Pop-tops are basically solar panel shaped obstacles disguised as ventilation solutions, aren't they? The real trick is accepting you're working with whatever roof space the hydraulic rams didn't claim, then making peace with 300-400W instead of the 800W you'll inevitably dream about at 3am.

I'd mount flexible panels flush on the main roof section rather than fighting the pop-top geometry—@RetiredNurse49's spot on about the 40% reality. The bonus is you avoid the nightmare of sealing edges around a moving roof panel, which my narrowboat taught me is a lesson worth learning vicariously rather than in person.

Run your wiring down the pop-top's interior edge rather than across the hinge line. Trust me on this one. Then size your Victron MPPT and battery accordingly—rubbish at panelling but decent at managing what little you've got is the off-grid philosophy.

What's your actual winter usage looking like? That's where pop-top realities bite hardest.

Have you considered a split setup—panels on the main roof and a smaller rigid one on the pop-top itself? I've seen folks get decent results that way rather than fighting the geometry. What's your typical power draw like? That'll dictate whether you're better off going for fewer, higher-output panels or spreading 400-600W across the space you've actually got.