Budget T5 conversion — £500 electrical system

by Dorset Solar · 1 year ago 3,653 views 50 replies
Titch
Titch
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The efficiency gap matters more than most realise once you factor in the actual cost per watt generated. @MuddyRanger's right to ask — a budget PWM like the Epever 40A will run you about £80-100, but you're leaving 15-25% of your panel output on the table depending on temperature and angle.

For a T5 with 400W rigid panels, honestly I'd stretch to a used Victron SmartSolar 75/15 or even a basic Fogstar MPPT. You'll recoup the extra £120-150 in recovered generation within 18-24 months, and the data logging is genuinely useful for optimising placement.

The real budget killer isn't the controller — it's underspeccing the battery bank. On a shoestring, people cram in a 100Ah LiFePO₄ and wonder why they're rationing power by mid-afternoon. Better to go 200Ah LiFePO₄ or hybrid lead-acid and accept the smaller panel array initially. You can add panels later for peanuts; swapping a battery is

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RetiredEngineer72
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Been down this road myself with my static caravan setup. If you're genuinely at £500 all-in, PWM will work, but I'd suggest stretching to a Victron SmartSolar 75/15 or similar if you can find one secondhand. The efficiency difference compounds over time, especially through winter when you're already running at lower output.

Real talk: I started with a cheap PWM controller and regretted it within six months. The panel voltage sag under load was noticeable, and you're essentially leaving free watts on the table. An MPPT doesn't cost the earth these days — Renogy's budget models are reasonable, or watch for open-box Victron units online.

The other consideration is future-proofing. If you ever want to add another 200W of panels later, PWM becomes more painful to work with. MPPT scales cleaner.

What's your actual usage profile looking like? That might shift the calc one way or the other.

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River Finn
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9 months ago
#2285

Mate, £500 all-in is genuinely impressive—most people's shopping basket would've cleared that before the kettle boils. PWM'll get you moving, but here's the thing: if you're actually living in it rather than weekend camping, those efficiency losses compound faster than damp in a badly-sealed van.

I ran PWM in my motorhome for six months and watched my panels doing about 70% of what they should've been doing on cloudy days. Swapped for a Victron SmartSolar 75/15 (£130 second-hand) and suddenly my winter mornings weren't quite so "cold shower and regret" themed.

The maths: if you're pulling even 500Wh daily, PWM's leaving you maybe 50-100Wh on the table. Over a year that's... well, it's basically a free panel you're not using.

Not saying bin the budget plan—genuinely, start where you are—but maybe earmark the MPPT upgrade as first port of call when funds allow. Your future self will thank you when you're not rationing

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Sprinter Convert
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9 months ago
#2333

Fair play to you @DorsetSolar, that's proper resourceful. I've been through similar thinking with my static caravan setup—the maths on budget systems gets interesting once you factor in what you're actually using versus what the spec sheet promises.

The rigid panels are a smart move if you're stationary. I went that route initially because monocrystaline efficiency matters when your roof space is limited. Where I'd gently push back though: if you're running a decent fridge or any heating, those 400W won't feel like much come November. I learned that the hard way.

What's your battery capacity looking like? That's where I reckon the real bottleneck sits on tight budgets. PWM controllers like you've got are fine for charging, but you're only as good as your storage. A mate of mine squeezed an extra grand into proper lithium instead of going wider on panels, and his winter reliability improved dramatically.

Did you have to compromise on the battery bank to hit that £500 mark?

😂 Heath Liz, Volt Stu
BigAl27
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9 months ago
#2360

Right, that's a solid effort for the budget. Shepherd's hut runs similar wattage to a T5 and I went PWM initially—worked fine for basics like lighting and charging devices, but you'll feel the pinch if you're running a fridge or heater much.

Few things from my own experience: those cheap charge controllers can be temperamental in British winter when light's rubbish anyway. Also worth checking if those rigid panels are actually getting decent angle on a van—they're unforgiving if you're parked awkwardly.

For £500 all-in, you've clearly done the bargain hunt well. Just don't cheap out on the battery monitoring—a basic shunt tells you what's actually happening rather than guessing. Saved me from deep-cycling my bank into an early grave.

How's the battery capacity looking? That's usually the real bottleneck at budget level.

KPO_OffGrid, Cumbrian Wanderer
Essex Nomad
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8 months ago
#2407

PWM controller doing the heavy lifting then? Brutal but honest—you'll feel every cloud that passes over those panels. The real test comes winter when your 400W becomes a strongly-worded suggestion at 2pm.

Genuinely curious what battery capacity you're running on that budget. Seen too many folks scrimp there and end up staring at a flat LiFePO₄ before tea time. Even a modest 100Ah lithium would've stretched the kitty but transforms the whole experience.

That said, if it's mostly weekend trips and you're disciplined with the loads, PWM + lead acid is the peasant's path that actually works. Not glamorous but plenty of folks prove it daily. Just don't expect to charge an EV off the leisure battery between site visits—I learned that one the hard way.

What's the battery actually, and are you planning to upgrade later or is this the final form?

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Glen Doug
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8 months ago
#2460

Been running similar wattage in my garden office setup and honestly, @DorsetSolar, you've nailed the budget approach. 400W rigid panels are a solid workhorse—they don't mind the weather like you might expect.

The PWM controller will do the job, yeah. You'll notice the difference on cloudy days more than with MPPT, but at that budget you're not losing loads of efficiency. What matters is you've got redundancy—that's proper thinking for emergency backup scenarios.

One thing worth considering when you've got a bit spare: a small Victron BMV monitor costs next to nothing secondhand and stops you wondering if the battery's actually charging. Game changer for peace of mind without the expense.

What's your battery setup looking like? That's usually where folk either get it right or end up frustrated.

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Tom
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7 months ago
#2630

Mate, proper impressive for a fiver! The PWM route is definitely the budget sweet spot—yeah, you'll notice the clouds, but for a T5 that's mainly used weekends or short breaks, it's perfectly workable.

One thing worth considering as you settle into it: keep an eye on your battery voltage during those cloudy spells. PWM can be a bit aggressive with the charging profile, so if you've gone lead-acid, just make sure you're not undercharging it regularly. That's where folk with budget setups sometimes see premature battery wear.

Also, if you find yourself wanting to squeeze more juice out of those 400W later, there's usually room to add another panel or two without needing to upgrade the controller—just wire them in parallel. Future-proofs the build a bit.

What battery are you running with it? That'll make a difference to whether you're golden for your typical usage or might want to tweak things down the line.

—Tom

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ExJoiner32
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6 months ago
#2740

Mate, that's genuinely impressive for five quid — reckon you've found every penny down the back of the sofa in the UK surplus market!

The PWM chat is spot on, but real talk: you're basically running a solar system that sulks whenever a pigeon flies overhead. Chef's kiss for the budget, but your battery's going to see

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FormerMechanic
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6 months ago
#2773

Solid work @DorsetSolar. I ran similar numbers on my static caravan before upgrading, and you've picked the right corners to cut. PWM controller is the sensible move at that wattage — the efficiency loss is minimal and you've freed up cash for decent battery terminals and cabling, which is where people actually go wrong on budget builds.

Only thing I'd flag: make sure those panels are actually rated for the roof movement. T5s flex a bit, especially over bumps, and I've seen cheaper rigid mounts come loose. Worth checking torque specs on the clamps after a week of use.

Also watch your battery top-up routine in winter. 400W sounds decent until the sun angles properly, then you're looking at some lean weeks. I ended up adding a second-hand 100W panel later when I couldn't justify the caravan sat idle. But that's a winter problem for another day.

What's your actual usage looking like? That'll tell you if you're genuinely sorted or just lucky with the weather so far.

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SOC_Nerd
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6 months ago
#2859

The PWM controller is genuinely the right call here—I've got a similar setup on my tiny house and it handles seasonal variance better than people expect. You're not losing anywhere near as much as folk claim once you factor in actual cloud cover and angle.

Only thing I'd flag: make sure you're monitoring that battery voltage regularly, especially during winter. PWM can let you overcharge in summer if you're not careful, and a basic £20 multimeter becomes your best mate. Battery longevity matters more than saving £100 on the controller.

Have you thought about adding a second 200W panel down the line? The T5's roof space is decent and you could keep the same controller—just wire them in parallel. That's the beauty of starting lean: you've got room to expand without ripping everything out.

What batteries are you running? That's usually where the compromises show up on tight budgets.

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Borders Explorer
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6 months ago
#2861

That's a cracking bit of constraint engineering there, @DorsetSolar. The real test will be how those rigid panels perform mounted on a T5 roof come winter—you're dealing with potential shading from the cab pillar and odd angles depending on parking orientation. Worth tracking your actual charge times over the next few months, particularly November through January.

One thing I'd flag: PWM controllers work fine for small systems, but you're burning efficiency the moment ambient temperature climbs above about 25°C. On a motorhome parked in summer sun, that could mean 15-20% of your generation just disappearing as heat through the controller. Not catastrophic at 400W, but worth knowing. I switched to a Victron SmartSolar 100/30 MPPT on my shepherd's hut setup and genuinely recouped the difference in added generation within two seasons.

Your battery choice matters equally here. What capacity are you running? Budget LiFePO₄ has come down dramatically, but cheap lead-acid on a vehicle you actually move regularly will need constant babysitting. Different equation if you're static most of the

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Gazza
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5 months ago
#2891

Ran a similar T5 setup for eighteen months before upgrading. That 400W will get you through spring/summer no bother, but come November you'll be rationing the kettle. The real trick is realistic expectations—embrace the limitations rather than fight them. Mate, what's your battery capacity looking like?

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Anne Watson
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5 months ago
#2956

Got 400W on my shepherds hut in similar conditions and it's genuinely solid for spring/summer. Winter's tougher though—you'll notice the difference on grey days. The rigid panels are fine but keep an eye on temperature coefficient in summer heat. Fogstar's PWM controllers are rock solid at that price point. What's your battery setup?

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Fenland Solar
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5 months ago
#2972

Worth asking—what's your battery capacity and controller type? 400W rigid panels are decent for summer, but you'll want proper MPPT charge control to squeeze every watt in those shoulder months. If you've gone budget on the controller, that's where you're leaving money on the table. What's the actual amp-hour spec you're working with?

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