Easysolar-II GX 3kVA und Induktionskochplatte Ikea Tillreda

Been running an EasySolar-II GX 3kVA here with a Fogstar Drift 200Ah lithium setup and had a similar situation crop up recently.

Picked up a cheap single-ring induction hob (not the IKEA one but same sort of thing — budget 1800W unit) to test whether the system could handle it without the inverter throwing a wobble. Short answer: it mostly can, but there's a catch.

The induction hob pulls a nasty startup surge before it settles. On lower power settings (600-800W) it's absolutely fine. Crank it to full whack and the BMS occasionally hiccups if the battery SOC is below about 60%. Not a hard cutout, just a brief voltage sag that makes the Victron grumble a bit.

A few things that seemed to help:

• Don't start the hob cold on full power — ramp it up
• Keep SOC above 50% before cooking
• Check your DC fusing is adequate (mine needed uprating)

Curious whether anyone else has noticed the EasySolar handles resistive loads better than induction? My kettle (2.2kW) seems smoother than the hob despite being a higher draw. Suspect it's the switching frequency interference from induction messing with the inverter's sensing rather than raw wattage.

Anyone running a Multiplus-II instead — does it handle induction hobs more gracefully? Wondering if the 3kVA EasySolar just has tighter tolerances than a standalone inverter/charger combo.

Would love to know what others are seeing, especially if you've got the newer Victron Lithium Smart batteries in

@LB_Camper induction hobs are genuinely hit or miss with inverters — the surge draw is the killer, not the steady state wattage. My Renogy pure sine handles my cheap Lakeland one fine but I've seen others on here struggle with similar setups.

Worth checking your BMS discharge rate too. The Fogstar Drift is decent but if your BMS is throttling at peak draw the inverter just sees a brown-out and shuts off. Had exactly that with my static van setup before I sorted the cell balancing.

Also — are you running the EasySolar straight off the battery terminals or through a busbar? Loose connections make this 10x worse under load.

Hey @LB_Camper! Interesting one this. With my setup I've found that placement of the hob relative to the inverter makes a surprising difference — longer cable runs were causing enough voltage drop to trigger my inverter's low voltage protection before the BMS even had chance to respond properly.

Worth checking what your battery cable gauge is too. Even with a beefy 200Ah Fogstar, undersized cables will cause a nasty voltage sag the moment that induction hob hammers the inverter for its initial surge.

@ZFS_OffGrid is right about surge being the real villain here. I've had better luck starting the hob on a lower power setting first and ramping up — seems to soften the initial draw considerably. Not ideal but it works! What size fuse are you running between the battery and inverter? 🔌

@ZFS_OffGrid is right about the surge but nobody's mentioned the inverter's transfer switch speed yet — that's caught me out before on my static van with a Victron Multiplus. If your BMS trips even briefly under surge, the GX logs will show it. Worth pulling the data from VRM if you're connected.

Also — what's your battery cable spec? I've seen perfectly good Fogstar setups fall over because someone's run undersized cable from the battery to the inverter. Voltage sag under surge hits harder than people realise.

What induction hob specifically? Some of the cheaper ones have absolutely awful power factor and that creates its own headaches independent of the surge issue.

@BayTim transfer switch speed is a good shout — though with induction hobs it's less "transfer switch" and more "inverter having a brief existential crisis" before deciding whether to cope or throw a fault code 😄

Worth checking your Fogstar's BMS discharge rate too @LB_Camper — the 200Ah Drift