Ecoflow Wave Powered from 24v LifePo4 battery?

I've been down this rabbit hole myself, and it's a proper head-scratcher. The Ecoflow Wave heater draws an absolute ton of current when it's heating — we're talking 30-40A spikes depending on which mode you're running. That's the killer.

Theoretically, yes, you can power it from a 24v LiFePO4 system, but you'll need some serious battery capacity and a beefy inverter to handle those current surges without your BMS cutting out mid-shower. I've got a 200Ah Fogstar in my narrowboat, and even I'd be nervous about running one of those heaters directly off it without careful load management.

The real issue is voltage sag. When the Wave draws that current, your 24v system might dip below the inverter's minimum input threshold, especially if you've got cable runs (which you almost certainly do in a boat or van setup). You'd want short, chunky cables — think 10mm² minimum.

What I'd actually recommend is pairing it with a proper DC-DC converter rather than an inverter if possible, or just accepting you'll need a 48v system. More voltage = less current draw = fewer headaches. A Victron Orion-Tr would handle the conversion elegantly, though it's not cheap.

Has anyone else actually got one running off LiFePO4? I'm curious whether people have found workarounds that don't involve remortgaging the narrowboat or living like monks without hot water.

The issue you're hitting is that the Wave's heating element is essentially a resistive load, so it'll happily pull whatever current you throw at it. Those 30-40A spikes will absolutely hammer a 24V LiFePO4 bank, especially if your BMS has a conservative discharge limit.

What's your actual battery capacity and BMS spec? That matters enormously. If you're running something like a Victron Smart LiFePO4 with a 100A BMS, you might just barely manage it, but you'll be stressing the cells hard — they don't like sustained high discharge rates, whatever the marketing claims.

Honestly, for consistent heating duty from a 24V bank, you'd be better off looking at a proper immersion heater controlled by your system's logic, or accepting that the Wave's just not ideal for off-grid work. The efficiency losses from DC-AC-DC conversion are brutal anyway.

What size are we talking — kWh?

The fundamental problem here is that you're trying to push a 3-4kW heating load through a 24V system, which necessitates those brutal current spikes. Your BMS will absolutely throttle or disconnect under that stress.

If you're set on this path, you'd need:

• Oversized cabling — we're talking 25mm² minimum, realistically 35mm²
• A BMS rated for 200A+ continuous (most 24V LiFePO₄ setups max out at 100-150A)
• Low-resistance busbars to minimise voltage sag

Honestly though, I'd ditch the Wave and go for a 3-phase immersion heater on a smaller inverter, or better yet, time your heating to solar peaks when you've got proper headroom. I'm running a Victron 48/3000 with exactly this problem solved — moved the heavy loads to midday generation.

What's your total battery capacity and current BMS spec? That'll tell us if this is salvageable or if you need a rethink.

The real problem isn't whether your LiFePo4 can handle it — it's whether you want to watch your battery state of charge crater in about two hours flat.

I ran the Wave off a 48V Victron setup for a winter season in the static caravan, and even then I was running it sparingly. The heating element is genuinely brutal on battery banks. You're looking at roughly 150Ah drawn in that timeframe if you've got a decent capacity.

24V means you're doubling the current for the same wattage — so your cable losses go mental, your BMS gets grumpy, and you'll thermally stress the cells unnecessarily. You'd need seriously beefy cabling to avoid voltage sag.

If you're set on the Wave, jump to 48V and add more solar or a generator. Otherwise, look at a proper storage heater or diesel option. The maths just doesn't work well on 24V for extended use.

What's your actual battery capacity you're working with?

Has anyone actually measured the voltage sag under those current spikes? That's what I'm curious about. I've got a 24V Victron setup on the boat and when I tested my old halogen heater, the BMS was cutting out at around 23.5V even though technically it could handle the current.

The Wave's probably got some kind of low-voltage cutoff, yeah? If it drops below its minimum operating voltage mid-cycle, you'd get the heater cycling on and off constantly, which would absolutely knacker your battery.

What's your actual cable gauge and distance from battery to the heater? I reckon that's where the real losses are hiding. Even 10mm² cable can lose a fair bit of voltage at 40A over any distance.

Have you considered just using it when you're actively charging, or is that not practical for your setup?

The voltage sag is precisely the issue @GrumpyWarden. I've got a 48V LiFePo4 setup in my static caravan and ran similar numbers on the Wave — even with low internal resistance, you're looking at 0.5-1V drop under 40A spikes through typical leisure battery cabling.

The real killer though is your BMS. Most 24V leisure units cut out around 22.4V to protect the pack, which means the Wave won't get clean 24V input for more than a few seconds. You'll get thermal throttling or complete dropout.

If you're set on this, you'd need a proper 48V LiFePo4 system with quality cabling (10mm² minimum), then use a DC-DC converter down to 24V for the Wave. But honestly, that's adding complexity and losses. Better to upgrade your battery bank voltage if you're serious about heating loads.

What's your current cable gauge and BMS specs?