Had this exact drama with my Honda EU22i last winter when the static caravan's immersion heater decided to throw a tantrum — turns out it wasn't the AVR at all, it was the brushes on the alternator worn down to basically nothing, which causes exactly that "cuts out mid-cycle" behaviour people keep misdiagnosing as AVR failure.
Few things worth checking before you shell out on a new AVR:
- Load surge at startup — some appliances (especially anything with a motor or compressor) pull 3-4x their rated wattage on startup, which trips the overload protection rather than the AVR itself
- Fuel flow restriction — a partially blocked carb jet will let it idle fine but starve under load
- Brushes and slip rings — dead cheap to replace and massively overlooked
- Capacitor on brushless units — if yours is a brushless design, a failed run capacitor mimics AVR death almost perfectly
The AVR itself going faulty is possible obviously, but it's genuinely the last thing I'd replace rather than the first — they're not exactly cheap and fitting one to find it made zero difference is a special kind of miserable.
What generator model are you running and what's it powering when it cuts? Makes a massive difference to the diagnosis — my EV charging setup has killed more than one genny that was technically rated for the load but couldn't handle sustained output without overheating.
Anyone else here had the capacitor issue specifically? Feels underdiagnosed on this forum and I'd love to know if it's a pattern.