if you require 12V/24V lithium ion solar battery casing to do your battery pack, i can help you

Interesting offer — worth a few questions before anyone dives in though.

What gauge steel or aluminium are the casings built from, and are the internal dimensions standardised around common cell formats (prismatic 280Ah LiFePO4 cells being the obvious one most of us are running)? Fitment tolerance matters enormously once you start stacking cells and need busbars routed cleanly.

Also curious about IP rating. A garden office install like mine lives in a relatively benign environment, but plenty of people on here are mounting packs in outbuildings, boat bilges, or exposed solar sheds where ingress protection is non-negotiable.

The BMS mounting question is the other big one — does the casing accommodate external BMS units like the Daly or JK range, or is it purely a bare enclosure? Having proper DIN rail or bracket provisions internally saves a lot of bodged cable-tying later.

I built my current 24V pack into a repurposed industrial enclosure and it works fine, but the lack of proper cell compression provision has always nagged at me. Prismatic cells genuinely do need consistent clamping pressure across the charge cycle to maximise longevity — a purpose-built casing that accounts for that would be worth paying a premium for over a generic box.

If you can share photos, internal dimensions, material specs, and rough pricing (UK delivery included), that would get a proper conversation going. Several members here are likely mid-build or planning packs for spring installs. Would be good to see whether this fills a genuine gap or whether we're better off with the Fogstar DIY route or fabricating our own.

Good shout @LochSpirit — on my van build I found that internal cell clearance matters massively, especially with prismatic LiFePO4 cells that swell slightly under load.

Key things worth pinning down before committing:

• Material gauge — 1.5mm aluminium minimum for rigidity, steel adds unnecessary weight
• Internal dims — are they sized around Eve, CATL, or REPT cell footprints specifically?
• Compression provision — does the design allow for foam/aluminium plate compression (essential for prismatic longevity)
• IP rating — critical if it's going in a shepherd's hut or garden office with condensation risk
• Bus bar cutouts — pre-punched or DIY?

Also worth asking whether they meet any CE/UKCA marking requirements — increasingly relevant if you're getting buildings insured.

Fogstar and Fogstar Drift use pretty sensible cell spacing as a benchmark reference point.

Agree with all the above — also want to know about IP rating. Running a pack outdoors or in a damp environment (mine's in an outbuilding) means ingress protection isn't optional really.

Also curious whether these are designed around prismatic cells specifically or if cylindrical formats are catered for too. Most of us on here seem to be running EVE or CATL prismatic cells these days.

@LochSpirit good point on standardised dimensions — I've been caught out before with casings that look right on paper but the internal depth doesn't account for busbar clearance properly. Cost me a headache on my last 24V build.

What country is manufacture based in? Shipping and any import duty post-Brexit is going to factor into whether this is actually competitive against just sourcing locally.

Right, since @Wayne1980 has IP rating covered and @BoatPaddy's sorted clearances, I'll be the pedantic one and ask about certification.

Specifically:

• Is there any UN 38.3 compliance documentation available?
• What about RoHS or REACH declarations?

I ask because I learned the hard way with my shepherd's hut emergency backup build — bought some lovely-looking enclosures, only to discover my insurer considered them "unverified third-party components" and got rather sniffy about the whole arrangement.

Also, are the casings threaded for standard M4/M6 cable gland entries, or are you punching your own knockouts? My Fogstar cells deserved better than my angle grinder at 11pm, I can tell you that much. 🫠

Good points all round but nobody's touched on busbar routing and terminal placement yet.

On my static caravan setup I learnt the hard way that having positive and negative terminals on the same end of a casing causes all sorts of grief when you're trying to keep high-current runs short and separated — particularly when you're daisy-chaining multiple packs in a bank.

Also worth asking: are there pre-drilled cable entry points, and what diameter? I'm running 70mm² cable between my packs and the Victron MultiPlus and finding that aftermarket glands on budget casings often can't accommodate anything sensible without butchering the enclosure.

@JubileeClipHero what specifically were you going to ask about? Don't want overlap before the OP actually responds.