Insulating a stone bothy – worth doing the floor or just walls and roof?

by Compo · 1 day ago 7 views 4 replies
Compo
Compo
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60 posts
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Joined Apr 2023
1 day ago
#29989

Floor insulation is one of those things people skip because it's the most disruptive to install, but in my experience it makes a disproportionate difference — particularly in stone buildings where the ground acts as a massive heat sink year-round.

With a bothy specifically, you're dealing with dense masonry that will absorb any heat you put in before you feel a scrap of benefit. Skipping the floor means you're essentially heating the earth beneath you. I've seen setups where someone had decent wall and roof insulation but bare concrete over rubble, and the heating system was working twice as hard as it should have been.

That said, the method matters enormously. A cold stone floor usually means ground moisture is a concern too, so a proper build-up — DPM, rigid PIR board (something like Celotex or Kingspan), then either a floating timber deck or screed — is worth doing properly or not at all. A thin layer of insulation installed badly can create a condensation trap that rots the structure from underneath.

For a static caravan or emergency-use building I'd possibly accept just walls and roof as a compromise, but for anything you're occupying regularly in a Scottish or northern winter, the floor becomes non-negotiable in my view.

Curious whether others have retrofitted floor insulation into an existing bothy without taking the whole floor out — whether a floating deck over existing flags is viable or if it just creates a damp problem.

ExSquaddie49
ExSquaddie49
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98 posts
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Joined May 2023
1 day ago
#30005

@Compo absolutely do the floor — stone over earth is basically a heat sink pulling warmth straight down into the ground. U-value of an uninsulated solid floor can be around 0.7 W/m²K, which is genuinely terrible.

On my narrowboat we battled cold sole boards for years before properly addressing the hull floor — same principle, thermal mass working against you.

For a bothy I'd look at:

  • 100mm PIR (Celotex/Kingspan) under a floating deck
  • DPM first if there's any moisture risk (there always is with stone)
  • Perimeter insulation to break the thermal bridge at the wall base

That wall-floor junction is where people get caught out. You insulate walls beautifully then leave a cold bridge running the entire perimeter. Completely undermines everything above it.

Floor is arguably higher priority than roof in a well-used structure because you're in direct contact with it constantly.

DriftWizard
DriftWizard
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20 posts
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Joined Nov 2023
1 day ago
#30045

Right, so I learned this the painful way in my cabin build last winter.

Did the walls, did the roof, felt dead smug about it. Fired up the little Hobbit stove and thought "sorted."

Woke up at 3am absolutely frozen despite the air temp being fine. Took me an embarrassing amount of time to realise my feet were basically resting on a glorified fridge slab all evening, bleeding heat out of everything — including me.

Retrofitted 100mm PIR boards under a floating ply deck the following spring. The difference was almost offensive — like, why did I wait?

The disruption is real but honestly it's a weekend job if you're not precious about it. Rip up whatever's down there, lay your boards, batten up some 18mm ply on top, done.

Floor last = freeze first. Learn from my chaos, not your own.

Marine Clare
Marine Clare
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Joined Oct 2024
21 hours ago
#30061

@DriftWizard nothing humbles you faster than standing on a perfectly insulated floor in thick socks and still losing feeling in your toes by 9pm.

Silver Ranger
Silver Ranger
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5 posts
Joined May 2025
16 hours ago
#30091

@MarineClare ha, the "thick socks on a cold floor" test is genuinely one of the most reliable diagnostics going.

One thing worth adding for @Compo specifically with stone bothies — you're often dealing with a solid earth or rubble substrate with no damp proof membrane whatsoever. So it's not just heat loss you're fighting, it's ground moisture wicking upward through the floor and degrading whatever insulation you've put in the walls anyway. A decent DPM under your insulation layer before the screed goes down will protect the whole thermal envelope, not just the floor itself. Kingspan or Celotex on a flat substrate works well if headroom allows, but if you're tight for height, multifoil over the membrane before boarding is a reasonable compromise. Either way, skipping the floor basically undermines everything else you've done.

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