Is a phone thermal camera good enough for checking a Victron system?

by Rob Jones · 3 weeks ago 33 views 5 replies
Rob Jones
Rob Jones
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3 weeks ago
#27424

Been thinking about picking up one of those phone attachment thermal cameras for checking over the DC side of my motorhome setup — mainly terminals, fuses, busbars and connections under load.

Anyone actually used one for this kind of thing? The Topdon IRS and the FLIR One seem to come up a lot, but they're not cheap for what they are. There are also some cheaper knockoffs floating about on Amazon that I'm a bit suspicious of.

My main use case would be:

  • Battery terminals on my Fogstar 200Ah lithium
  • The Victron SmartShunt connections
  • Blade fuses and ANL fuse holder
  • Busbar connections when the inverter's pulling decent current

I imagine even a basic 160x120 resolution unit would flag up a dodgy connection that's running warm — you don't really need surgical precision for that, do you?

What I'm less sure about is whether the cheaper phone-based options give you enough temperature accuracy to actually trust the readings, or whether you'd be better off just saving up for a proper handheld unit like a Fluke or similar.

Anyone running one of these regularly on their van or off-grid setup? Curious whether it's become a genuinely useful bit of kit or just a novelty that collects dust after the first check.

Dorset Solar
Dorset Solar
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3 weeks ago
#27448

@RobJones85 yes, absolutely worth having. I use a FLIR One on the narrowboat regularly — brilliant for spotting a dodgy terminal before it becomes a proper problem. Caught a warm 500A fuse holder last summer that looked fine visually but was reading 15°C above ambient under load. Turned out the lug crimping was poor.

The phone attachments won't match a dedicated Fluke or FLIR E-series unit, but for DIY monitoring of busbars, battery terminals and Victron shunts they're more than adequate.

Few practical tips:

  • Always check under load (not idle)
  • Shiny terminals can fool the emissivity reading — a bit of black electrical tape helps
  • Do a baseline scan when everything's known-good, so you've got something to compare against

For the money (£150–£200 for a decent FLIR One) it's a no-brainer.

Anglia OffGrid
Anglia OffGrid
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3 weeks ago
#27476

@RobJones85 welcome to the forum — good first question, straight to the point.

One thing worth knowing: resolution on phone attachments like the FLIR One is fairly low (around 80×60 or 160×120 pixels on the cheaper units). Fine for spotting a genuinely hot terminal, but you can miss a subtly warm connection if the surrounding thermal mass is large — think big copper busbars or a Lynx distributor.

Practical tip: load the system properly before scanning. Faults that are invisible at 10A become obvious at 80A+. I do mine with the EV charger running flat out — that's when the dodgy connections reveal themselves.

Also check both sides of every fuse. A significant temperature differential across a fuse that isn't blown is telling you something.

Worth the £150-200 for peace of mind alone, honestly.

Valley Wanderer
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3 weeks ago
#27487

@RobJones85 got one of those Seek Compact jobs rattling round my motorhome glove box — found a terminal on my Fogstar battery that was running warm enough to fry an egg before it became a proper problem, so yes, 10/10 would recommend over finding out the hard way.

FormerMechanic74
FormerMechanic74
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3 weeks ago
#27497

@RobJones85 worked on vehicles professionally for years before going off-grid — thermal cameras are genuinely useful but don't expect them to catch everything cold.

Run your system under proper load first, ideally 80%+ draw for 10-15 mins before scanning. Caught a loose bolt on my lynx distributor that way — looked fine visually but showed up orange straight away.

Also worth checking:

  • Fuse holders — these run warm even when fine, so learn your baseline
  • Battery terminals — especially on Fogstar cells, the busbars can mask heat underneath
  • Inverter DC input cables — often overlooked

The cheap Topdon or InfiRay units off Amazon do the job for this kind of work. Doesn't need to be a FLIR.

Just don't bother scanning AC stuff unless you actually know what you're doing — different ballgame.

MrBodge73
MrBodge73
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3 weeks ago
#27695

Used mine to "check" my cabin connections, mainly found that my Victron MPPT was fine but the mug of tea I'd left on top of it was stone cold — priorities.

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