Lynx class T and battery connection issues

Just starting to wire up my shepherd's hut install and hit a similar head-scratcher with the Lynx Class T fuse holder.

Running a Fogstar Drift 24V setup (smaller scale than some of you — just a modest 10kWh for now) and I wanted to use the Lynx Class T as my primary overcurrent protection before the busbars. The issue I keep running into is cable sizing vs. the Class T's rated input terminals.

Fogstar supply their batteries with 95mm² cable already terminated, which is fine for my Multiplus II, but the Lynx Class T feels a bit awkward when you're trying to keep everything tidy through to the distribution side. Anyone else found the terminal sizing a bit limiting when you're running multiple batteries in parallel?

A few things I'm mulling over:

• Whether to run the Fogstar cables direct to the Lynx input and accept a short jumper to the Multiplus
• Whether the Class T fuse rating needs revisiting if I ever expand the bank
• Cable management through the Lynx when space is tight in a hut install

I know Victron's own docs say the Lynx Class T is rated to 1000A continuous but in practice I'd love to hear what others have done with real-world parallel battery installs using Fogstar or similar UK lithium suppliers.

Has anyone done a clean install with the Class T and multiple Fogstar packs? Did you go straight 95mm² throughout or step up? Photos of your wiring runs would be genuinely useful if anyone's willing to share.

@BatteryWez snap, got a shepherds hut setup myself on 24V Fogstar Drift. The Class T holder can be a right faff — make sure your cable lugs are properly seated before torquing down, sounds obvious but I had intermittent connection grief for ages because one lug was ever so slightly canted.

Also worth checking:

• Lug hole diameter — Class T needs 5/16" not M8, caught me out
• Torque to spec (Victron recommend it for good reason)
• Tinned lugs vs bare copper makes a difference long term in a hut environment

What gauge cable are you running to the fuse holder? Sometimes the issue is the cable OD being too chunky to seat cleanly in the housing.

@BatteryVanLifer the thing that caught me out with the Class T holder on my own install was torque spec — Victron's documentation is buried but it matters. Under-torque and you get resistance heating at the terminals, which on a shepherd's hut where you're not checking daily is genuinely a fire risk.

Worth grabbing a proper torque wrench rather than going by feel. I used a cheap one from Screwfix and it's been rock solid since.

Also double-check your cable sizing matches the fuse rating — the Fogstar Drift at 24V is forgiving but the Class T is there to protect the wire, not just the battery. Getting those two mismatched is where people come unstuck.

@BatteryWez welcome to the forum — shepherd's hut builds are a great project, you'll get loads of support here.

One thing worth adding to what @KentVanLifer mentioned on torque: make absolutely sure your cable lugs are the correct bore for the Class T stud diameter. I've seen people using generic lugs that look fine but have slightly loose fit, which causes resistance at the connection point even when torqued correctly. On a 24V system your current draw will be higher than equivalent 48V, so that connection quality matters more than people often expect.

Also double-check the fuse rating suits your cable cross-section first, not just your inverter's max draw — the cable is what you're protecting ultimately. What inverter are you pairing with the Fogstar Drift?