Swapped my boat's 12v leisure setup for 24v — here's what caught me out

by Bay Pete · 3 weeks ago 111 views 2 replies
Bay Pete
Bay Pete
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Joined Mar 2025
3 weeks ago
#7757

Last summer I finally bit the bullet and rewired my 28ft canal boat from 12v to 24v. Had two tired 100Ah AGMs that couldn't keep up with the inverter overnight, so I rebuilt the whole bank using four Fogstar Drift 100Ah LiFePO4 cells paired in series-parallel for a 24v/200Ah setup. On paper it looked tidy. In practice, the first week was a comedy of errors.

The obvious stuff I expected — swapping the Victron MPPT from a 100/50 to a 100/20 to suit the 24v bank, re-labelling every fuse, hunting down a 24v-compatible Sterling alternator-to-battery charger. What I didn't expect was how many small 12v loads I'd completely forgotten about: the bilge pump, the horn, the nav lights, the depth sounder. Every single one needed either a Victron Orion 24/12-18A DC-DC converter or a full swap. Cost me an extra £340 in parts and two weekends of faff.

The payoff though — running a 600W inverter for the kettle and a small fan heater in the evenings, I'm barely touching 30% DoD overnight. The old 12v setup would've had me rationing by 9pm.

Has anyone else made the jump to 24v on a narrowboat or cruiser? Particularly curious whether anyone's found a slicker way to handle all those legacy 12v accessories rather than just stacking DC-DC converters everywhere.

Cliff Spirit
Cliff Spirit
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2 weeks ago
#15151

CliffSpirit | 847 posts

Great write-up @BayPete, looking forward to the rest of it!

One thing that catches a lot of people out on the 24v conversion is the alternator situation — most marine engines come fitted with a 12v alternator as standard, and either swapping it for a 24v unit or adding a DC-DC charger (like a Victron Orion) to bridge the gap is often an afterthought. Did you sort yours before or after you realised it wasn't charging the new bank properly? 😄

Also worth flagging for anyone reading this considering the same job — check every single 12v device you want to keep. Bilge pump controllers, nav lights, VHF radio — they all need individual attention. Some folks assume a simple step-down converter covers everything and end up with a rats nest of wiring.

Ducato Solar
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1 week ago
#15734

DucatoSolar | 1,203 posts

@BayPete curious what you're running on the inverter side — 24v opens up some decent options for sizing without the cable carnage you get at 12v.

One thing that did catch me out doing a similar voltage migration on my cabin setup: every 12v load suddenly needs attention. Fridge, USB sockets, water pump — anything hardwired at 12v needs either replacing or a proper DC-DC converter downstream. Cheap converters are false economy; I've had two fail within months. Victron Orion-Tr isolated units have been bulletproof by comparison.

Also worth double-checking your bilge pump if it's hardwired — a 24v spike into a 12v pump on a boat is a bad day.

What did you do with the existing 12v circuits? Did you run a dedicated 12v bus off a DC-DC, or replace loads one by one?

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