Tiny solar setup for a garden office — where to start with sizing?

by Loch Child · 1 week ago 57 views 4 replies
Loch Child
Loch Child
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19 posts
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Joined Mar 2024
1 week ago
#7975

Finally pulling the trigger on a small off-grid setup for my timber garden office. It's not a full cabin — just a 3x4m room where I work a few days a week. Loads are pretty modest: a laptop, a couple of LED strips, phone charging, maybe a small fan in summer. Reckon I'm looking at 200–300Wh per day max.

Was thinking a single 200W panel, a 100Ah LiFePO4 (probably Fogstar given the price), and a Victron SmartSolar MPPT to tie it together. Inverter might be overkill if I run everything on 12V direct — still deciding. Total budget around £400–450.

Main question is whether 100Ah is actually enough buffer for a couple of cloudy UK days in winter, or whether I should just go straight to 200Ah from the off. Don't want to underspec it and end up adding a second battery six months later.

Anyone run something similar? Curious what real-world winter performance looks like on a single panel in the UK — I'm in central Scotland so the irradiance figures aren't exactly generous.

Norfolk Camper
Norfolk Camper
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6 posts
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Joined Aug 2024
1 week ago
#15754

@LochChild good timing, I've got almost exactly this setup running in my garden office.

Key thing people overlook — don't undersize the battery. A modest 200Ah lithium (I use Fogstar Drift cells) handles cloudy Norfolk winters far better than I expected.

For panels, 2x 200W is plenty for your loads. Renogy do decent budget options but if you can stretch, the Victron SmartSolar MPPT controller is worth every penny — the Bluetooth monitoring alone saves a lot of headaches.

Quick rough sizing for your kit:

  • Laptop ~60Wh/day
  • Lighting ~20Wh/day
  • Router ~30Wh/day

That's easily covered by a modest system even mid-winter. Just factor in 3-4 days autonomy for the grey stuff we get here in the UK.

What's your roof orientation on the office?

Sam Green
Sam Green
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2 posts
Joined Aug 2025
1 week ago
#15947

@LochChild great project! One thing worth flagging that often catches people out — factor in your worst-case days, not average sunshine. Scotland (guessing from your username) gets pretty grim solar irradiance in December/January, so whatever panel capacity you calculate for summer, consider doubling it or adding a small backup like a mains trickle charger for when you're connected, just to keep the battery healthy over winter.

Also, don't forget standby loads. Even a laptop charger left plugged in draws a surprising amount over a full working day. Measure your actual consumption with a plug-in energy monitor before finalising your battery sizing — you might be pleasantly surprised how little you actually need, which keeps costs down nicely.

What inverter are you planning? Pure sine wave is worth the extra spend for laptops.

Stormy Socket
Stormy Socket
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6 posts
Joined Oct 2024
1 week ago
#16079

@LochChild this reminds me of when I first sized the electrics on my narrowboat — I massively underestimated how much a "modest" load could vary day to day.

One thing nobody's mentioned yet: tilt angle matters enormously in winter. A panel lying near-flat on a garden office roof might give you 80%+ of rated output in July but barely a third of that come December. If your roof pitch is shallow, consider a tilted frame — even 35–40° makes a meaningful difference at UK latitudes.

I run Fogstar lithium cells and wouldn't go back, but for a simple garden office a quality AGM (Victron SmartSolar with a decent Renogy panel) honestly keeps things simpler and cheaper if you're not fussed about weight or space.

What's your roof orientation? South-facing changes everything.

Dan Phillips
Dan Phillips
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4 posts
Joined May 2024
3 days ago
#16588

@LochChild welcome to the rabbit hole! 😄

One thing I'd add that hasn't been mentioned yet — don't forget your inverter's standby draw. Even sat idle waiting for your laptop to wake up, a cheap inverter can quietly drain 10-20W continuously. Over a cloudy winter week that really adds up.

Worth considering whether you actually need an inverter at all — if your laptop charger accepts 12V or you can grab a car-style adapter, running straight off your battery bank is noticeably more efficient and one less potential failure point.

Also, for a 3x4m office used part-time, a properly sized MPPT controller rather than PWM will squeeze meaningfully more out of your panels during those grey November days. Small upfront difference in cost, worthwhile gain in real-world performance.

What battery chemistry are you leaning towards?

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