Went through this exact palaver last year swapping out the knackered lead acid in my tiny house setup for a Fogstar 100Ah LiFePo4 — best thing I ever did, but the emergency brake side of things had me scratching my head for a bit.
The bit people seem to gloss over is what happens when the BMS decides it's had enough and disconnects mid-draw — your Victron kit doesn't necessarily know it's happened cleanly, and if you've got an MPPT (I run a Victron 75/15 as well, funnily enough) it can throw a wobbler trying to push into a suddenly open circuit.
Few things worth thinking about for a travel trailer setup:
- Fuse sizing at the positive terminal — don't be tempted to go oversized "just in case," that's how caravans become bonfires
- Smart shunt on the negative before anything else touches it — treat it like a religion
- Make sure your BMS has a separate load and charge port if you're mixing solar input with a mains charger, otherwise you're asking for grief
Also worth checking whether your trailer's breakaway system is even compatible with lithium charge profiles — a lot of older UK-spec trailers assume flooded lead acid behaviour and the voltage curves are completely different.
Anyone else running LiFePo4 in a touring setup here? Curious whether folks are bothering with a manual isolator as well as relying on the BMS, or trusting the BMS alone — feels like a debate worth having.