Working remotely from a van — power needs

Spot on lads. Had this exact problem with my setup — was running a Victron MPPT with about 400W of panels and thought I'd be grand. Reality hit different once the laptop needed charging mid-afternoon.

The thing nobody mentions is parasitic draw. Your router, fridge, controller standby — it all adds up quick. I was losing maybe 15% to stuff I wasn't even accounting for.

If you're working 8 hours a day, assume your batteries need to store way more than what you're actually using. Gets worse in winter obvs. I'd suggest:

• Measure everything for a week with a shunt monitor
• Size batteries for 3-4 days autonomy minimum (not 1-2)
• Add 50% more solar than the calculator tells you

Fogstar panels have been decent on the roof for cost, but honestly the biggest win was just being ruthless about what actually needs constant power. Does the router really need 24/7, or can you turn it off when you're not in calls?

Good shout from everyone so far. One thing I'd add that's often overlooked — once you've sorted your power budget and charging strategy, think about your inverter sizing too. You don't want to cheap out here.

I made the mistake of getting a undersized pure sine wave inverter, and it was a right pain when my laptop charger and router tried to fire up simultaneously. The voltage sag was causing all sorts of dropouts. Ended up replacing it, which wasn't cheap.

If you're working remotely, I'd honestly recommend getting an inverter rated for at least 1.5x your peak load. So if your laptop and router pull 200W combined, go for a 3000W inverter minimum. Yeah, it costs more upfront, but you'll have headroom for kettle duties too without everything crashing.

Also make sure it's proper sine wave — cheap modified sine stuff can damage sensitive electronics over time.

@LiFePO4Fan's right about starting with measurements, but don't skip the inverter spec. It's the unsung hero of a solid van setup.

The power budget conversation's solid, but here's what caught me out in my first year — thermal management of your kit. Your Victron or whatever charge controller you're running will throttle efficiency in summer heat, and if your battery box isn't properly ventilated, you're losing capacity on the days you need it most.

I've got a modest 200W solar array in the van, and I realised half my "power shortage" was actually the lithium sitting at 45°C in July. Added some passive ventilation and it was like gaining another 100W of panels.

Also worth considering: what's your actual work schedule? If you're genuinely remote 9-5, you might get away with less battery than you think — your solar's generating during those hours. I run a basic LiFePO4 setup (300Ah) but honestly, 150Ah would cover my laptop and 4G router if the weather's decent.

@LiFePO4Fan's right about the measuring bit though. Actually log your consumption for a week before buying anything. Cuts through all the guesswork.

Thermal management's a good shout @OffGridMax — my garden office setup taught me that the hard way before I even got to the van conversion phase.

But honestly, the thing nobody mentions is that your power budget on paper versus reality is like comparing a Victron spec sheet to what actually happens when it's December in Scotland and your panels are basically decorative. I'd add 30% contingency minimum, or you'll be rationing Netflix like it's 1995.

Also, if you're working remotely, your router and laptop must be on a separate circuit from your leisure loads. One blown fuse during a Teams call and you'll question every life choice that got you into a van in the first place. Fogstar or similar dedicated RV battery setup splits this nicely without costing a fortune.

What's your actual simultaneous load looking like? That'll tell you whether you need 200Ah or if you're genuinely just needing enough juice for a laptop and a kettle.

Spot on about thermal management @OffGridMax. I learned that one in the motorhome the hard way — laptop throttling in summer because the van cab gets proper hot, even with decent ventilation sorted.

What I'd add: factor in your charger efficiency losses too. Most people just spec batteries and panels, but a MPPT controller and inverter aren't 100% efficient. I'm running Victron kit in mine and even with their decent gear, you're looking at 10-15% losses through the system depending on your setup.

Also worth mentioning — remote work means consistent daytime draw, which is brilliant for solar. Unlike typical van life where you're on the move, you can actually size panels properly because you know you'll be stationary and getting decent sun exposure. Makes a real difference vs trying to squeeze everything into a tiny roof space.

What's your current setup looking like?

Good thread. @OffGridMax and @WonkyMender are spot on about thermal management — often overlooked. Worth adding: proper ventilation in a van is trickier than a static setup. Consider your inverter placement too; they generate heat and need airflow. A small 12V fan can save you headaches (and throttling) during summer working. What's your current kit setup looking like?

The thermal issue's real, but don't overlook your inverter sizing either. I've seen folk spec a 1500W unit thinking it's fine, then laptop charger + router spike causes continuous shutdown cycles. Your peak draw matters as much as average. What's your actual simultaneous load, and are you looking at lithium or lead-acid for storage?

Been running a setup on my narrowboat for two years now — power budget's half the battle, but honestly the inverter sizing caught me out. Got a 1500W Victron thinking it'd be fine, then realised my kettle + laptop charger together = chaos. Go 2000W minimum if you're working properly. Also, ambient temp management isn't just about the laptop — your battery bank'll thank you too.

@FenlandSolar's spot on about inverter undersizing — I watched someone try to run a kettle and laptop simultaneously on a 1500W unit and genuinely thought they were attempting a physics experiment. Your actual peak draw (not average) will bite you hard. Kettle alone pulls 2-3kW. Been there, learned expensively.