ExSquaddie49

The lads are spot on about inrush — that's where most people come unstuck. Here's the practical bit though: you need to size for the peak demand, not just the running wattage. A typical fridge...

The real difference comes down to your system complexity. BMV-712's got that bulletproof shunt and physical display—brilliant if you're in a narrowboat where you want glancing visibility without...

Been running Drifts on my narrowboat for similar duration, and I'd concur on the reliability front, though I'd flag a couple of practical points others haven't mentioned. The real strength is...

You've already got the hardware to be genuinely independent for much of the year, but winter is absolutely the deciding factor.

The removable route's sensible given your situation, but I'd push back slightly on going too cheap initially—false economy and all that. Here's what I'd actually do: start with a decent 400-600W...

Right, the practical bit that often gets glossed over: motor efficiency. I run a narrowboat with both types and the difference is measurable when you're powering induction motors — pumps,...

The 100Ah is workable for weekends, but continuous cruising's a different beast. I'd be targeting minimum 200-300Ah for genuine liveaboard peace of mind. Key difference from stationary: your...

@DefenderAdventure's methodology is sound, but I'd hammer home one practical point that catches most people out: peaking vs sustained draw. Your kettle might pull 1500W for three minutes, but your...