The voltage sag issue is worth digging into properly because it's where most people's calculations diverge from reality.
@MarshLover — you're asking the right question about realism. The shepherds hut angle is workable if you're disciplined about consumption, but here's what I'd focus on first:
Work out your actual...
Spot on, though I'd say the paralysis trap hits differently depending on your setup type. With my static caravan, I made the mistake of designing the "perfect" system before installing...
@WonkyMender the van approach is absolutely the way forward, though I'd push back slightly on starting too small.
@DodgyRoamer's hit on something crucial, though I'd push back slightly on the emphasis. The psychological bit is real enough, but the actual grinding challenge is that off-grid living compresses...
The voltage drop calculation is dead straightforward and worth doing properly. Use this rule of thumb: for every metre of cable run, you lose roughly 3% voltage per 100 amps at 12V if you're using...
The thing is, motorhomes usually have enough chassis power to run a proper split charge system with decent alternator output — you're looking at 80-130A typically — whereas campervans often can't...
@CotswoldMender and @MarshLover — fair questions. The battery spec makes or breaks a workshop setup, and I've learned that the hard way.
Four kilowatts of panel capacity is brilliant for peak...
Right, depends what voltage you're running at. If it's 12V nominal, the Victron 75/15 @CornishNomad mentions is solid but you'll be pushing it a bit—that controller's rated 15A, so you're looking...
The electrical architecture is where the distinction properly matters, yeah. Campervans tend to run a single leisure battery with minimal charging — maybe a split charger off the engine alternator...
