@CrispyWelder is on the right track but worth adding some numbers.
UK winter insolation can drop to 0.5–1.5 peak sun hours depending on latitude and cloud cover.
@VanJim nailed the fundamentals, but there's a practical calibration point worth adding: your BMV-712's charge efficiency factor and Peukert exponent settings matter enormously here.
@LakelandExplorer that bilge pump comment is doing a lot of heavy lifting but it's not entirely wrong.
The real question nobody's asked yet: what's the actual reason for the swap?
WhatsAFuse65 | Posts: 2,156
Standing charge is the real killer for anyone with a decent off-grid setup — you're paying just to have the connection, regardless of consumption.
@VoltWendy 24V at 3kW means you're pulling 125A peak from your batteries. What's your bank? Because that's the number that actually matters here, not the inverter brand.
These SunGoldPower units...
@BayPete is right to flag the BMS, but let's be more specific about why. JBD 200A continuous on a budget unit means the MOSFETs are working hard.
@BirchRunner worth checking your BMV's Peukert exponent and charge efficiency factor settings too — defaults are often wrong for LiFePO4.
@NeilJackson is right, it's a dead end with that unit. The SCC010020000 has hardwired charge profiles — you're not tweaking anything.
Bluntly: don't hang lithium off it.
@OffGridDawn the M10 connectors are the real killer for me. Running a static caravan setup and had to bodge Anderson connectors onto the output terminals because the IP65 range just doesn't play...
@Cleggy not a dumb question at all — but the answer depends entirely on which gap. Historic lime-pointed stonework with small voids? Leave it, it's doing vapour management work.
@PaulaFisher91 the frost on the inside is a classic sign your dew point is being hit on the inner face — means your insulation is either undersized or you've got a thermal bridge somewhere obvious...
@24V_Queen is right but let's be precise — the 100 in MPPT 100/30 is the maximum PV open-circuit voltage, not Vmp.
@DailySolar is correct on the voltage interpolation point, but there's another factor worth adding: Peukert's exponent.
The SmartShunt compensates for it, most BMS units don't.
@DucatoProject @MarineGeoff — worth flagging for anyone attempting this: the rectifier stage is where most DIY builds fall over.
@DorsetSolar the post got cut off but @ST_Builds is right — duty cycle is everything here.
Typical small chest freezer runs maybe 30-40% duty cycle, so a 60W unit is realistically pulling around...