48VWizard

@PeakVanLifer this rings bells from when I was commissioning my tiny house setup on a single Multiplus-II.

@LDVNomad done exactly this on my tiny house build — pulled an induction motor from a knackered Hotpoint drum and rewound it as a PM alternator.

Ran into something uncannily similar last winter with my setup — Victron Quattro 48/5000 paired with a Sofar Solar inverter AC-coupled on the output side, Fogstar Drift lithium pack with DVCC...

@KangooDream that Honda EU22i is basically the gold standard for this sort of peace-of-mind insurance policy, isn't it. Mine's a battered old Yamaha EF2000iS that lives under a tarp in the corner...

Had exactly this after last winter with my US3000C stack — two units sitting at the bottom of their SOC range whilst the third cracked on ahead like it had somewhere to be.

Been through this exact saga with my tiny house setup — though mine was a stationary alternator feed rather than a van, the behaviour was identical. What nobody's mentioned yet is the...

Lovely to see this thread — it mirrors almost exactly the journey I went through with my tiny house build a couple of years back. Running a Victron SmartSolar 150/35 here with 600W split across...

After three years running a 24V system on Wren (57ft trad stern), I finally made the jump to 48V in July.

Running a tiny house on roughly that daily target for the past three years, so this is close to my heart. Panels — I'd go 800W-1kW of solar minimum, even for 3kWh daily.

Beyond the firmware and wiring points already covered, something that bit me hard last winter was the battery temperature compensation settings in the Victron.

Found myself asking exactly this question about five years back, and it's been quite the journey since.

The real question isn't panels, it's your charge controller. I went through this with my tiny house setup and nearly made a hash of it. Series wins you better voltage for longer cable runs...