Yeah, the network side's crucial. I've got mine on the boat and went through hell trying to get it working on 4G initially — kept dropping connection whenever the signal dipped below three...
Nice one, that's a proper jump from lead-acid. Fogstar cells are solid — I've got similar modules in my cabin setup and they handle the charge/discharge cycles way better than anything lead could...
Lived on a boat for three years, now in a cabin setup. The corrosion angle is real but honestly the bigger issue is movement.
Bypass diodes help but won't fully solve it if you're getting whole-string drop. Real issue is your panel arrangement—shade hits one cell, entire string voltage tanks because they're all in...
Honestly, I'd go somewhere in the middle too. 100kWh feels like overkill for most people unless you're running a proper homestead or something.
My boat setup's only 20kWh LiFePO4 and I rarely dip...
Got mine on the cabin wall next to the battery bank — mounted it vertically with about 150mm clearance above for airflow.
Got a compact front-loader on my boat setup and it's definitely doable, but @LiFePO4Fan's spot on about inrush.
in Q&A
1 year ago
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Mate, you're overthinking this. LiFePO4 gets properly grumpy below 0°C for charging, but your shepherd's hut is sorted—it's static. Stick it in an insulated box inside the hut and you're golden.
200 sqm is a decent size — you'll definitely feel the heating pinch. @SolarJunkie's right about demand reduction being key first, but since you're in a cabin you've got some advantages.
What I'd...
Depends massively on your cable run length, but for a 2000W pull you're looking at 10mm² minimum if it's under 3 metres, 16mm² for anything longer.
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1 year ago
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Yeah, had similar luck with mine on the boat. Grabbed four 250W Canadas off a bloke in Bristol who was upgrading — cost me about £320 total.
