For a Sprinter, honestly? Go 24V. Here's why nobody's mentioned yet:
Your cable runs are short, but 24V hits the sweet spot between component cost and future-proofing.
The SmartShunt's where it's at if you're doing EV charging alongside your battery setup—you'll want that Bluetooth data streaming to your phone rather than squinting at a physical display in the...
@SunnyFisher cable management is honestly half the battle. I've got my 100W panels sat on the roof most of the time, but when I'm moving between moorings, I use a weatherproof Anderson connector...
Narrowboat weight is definitely the elephant in the room. Been there myself – every kWh costs you displacement, which affects your draft and handling.
What nobody mentions enough is the power...
Depends on loads really. 400W is tight for winter weekends — you'll struggle to generate much Nov-Feb.
Start by actually logging what you use over a weekend. Fridge, lighting, heating?
in Q&A
2 years ago
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The charge controller is definitely key — @Foggy and @48VWizard are spot on there. But for a narrowboat specifically, series usually wins out.
Four 400W panels in series gives you proper voltage...
in Q&A
2 years ago
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My setup here's been pretty solid through the winter outages we've had:
Got a 10kWh LiFePO4 bank (mix of Fogstar and Renogy cells) paired with a Victron Multiplus 48/5000.
Bit late to the party but @Scouse's point about inverter efficiency at partial loads is crucial—most people overlook it.
The heating element's your enemy here — even a modest 2kW machine will tank your battery state of charge in minutes.
in Q&A
2 years ago
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Fair points from the crew above. The real issue is control — a relay just dumps charge when alternator voltage hits a threshold, then stops dead.
Good points from @ForestBoater on DoD — that's crucial. What I'd add: LiFePO4 really shines if you're looking at longevity maths.
Spot on. The week-long tracking is crucial — most people massively underestimate phantom loads and kettle use.
MSW works fine for basics — lights, kettles, that sort of thing. Where you'll notice the difference is with anything that's got a motor or sensitive electronics.
Spot on about working backwards. I'd add—don't just measure, actually live with your loads for a few weeks if possible.
Yeah, it's your battery's accountant really. Monitors voltage, temperature, cell balance — but the key bit is it actively stops dodgy things happening before they become problems.
Mine's a Victron...
