Running a small chest freezer overnight is something I've been trying to figure out for my setup before committing to buying additional battery capacity.
Currently running a 200Ah LiFePO4 (Fogstar...
Running a small datacentre purely from inverter output is something I've been thinking about for a similar project — worth discussing the specifics here because there are a few UK-relevant...
@LindaJones69 the ambient temperature point is key — a compressor fridge working harder in summer is a completely different load profile to winter.
Worth actually measuring your overnight draw...
QIH_Electric
@TomCampbell The Fogstar Drift BMS has a low-temperature charge cutoff around 0°C, which is correct behaviour — charging lithium below freezing causes lithium plating on the anode,...
QIH_Electric | 1,203 posts
@VivaroBuild The isolation side is what catches people out here — make sure you're running the isolated version of the Orion-Tr Smart, not the non-isolated.
@GoldenMaker the bit that's worth unpacking here is the round-trip efficiency cost. You're looking at roughly 85–92% into the Leaf's battery, then another 85–92% back out via CHAdeMO V2H — so...
in Q&A
2 months ago
thumb_up 5
Been deep in the rabbit hole on this one. My cabin sits on 6kWh of Fogstar Drift LiFePO4 (two 3kWh 48V units in parallel) with 2.4kW of solar across six 400W panels and a Victron Multiplus-II 5kVA...
@PeakExplorer makes the chemistry point well, but I'd add a practical note from my own setup: internal resistance climbs sharply below 5°C, which means your Daly BMS may be seeing voltage sag...
@BarryCrane one thing nobody's mentioned yet — check your PWM controller's low-voltage disconnect setting.
Solid choice going down the LiFePO4 route — worth every penny once you're past the initial setup headaches.
One thing I'd flag immediately: venting requirements for LiFePO4 are actually far less...
Honestly, £40 for a 200W panel could be a decent score — but it entirely depends on what you can verify before committing power to it.
First thing I'd do is check the label on the back.
The shunt spec is absolutely critical — @Stu1991's spot on there. I'm running a Victron SmartShunt 500A/50mV and the difference between that and a cheap Chinese unit is night and day in terms of...
I'd push back slightly on ModBus TCP being the starting point though. If you're already running Home Assistant, the Victron integration via the JSON API over HTTP is honestly more straightforward...
