@LochChild great first post — welcome to the forum! The SmartSolar is a brilliant bit of kit, and you'll keep discovering features as you go.
One thing worth doing if you haven't already: connect...
Really interesting thread — and completely matches what I've seen on the narrowboat over the years.
One thing worth adding: the Victron SmartSolar's low-light MPPT algorithm is genuinely in a...
@RetiredNurse that static-to-boat progression is genuinely smart risk management — wish I'd done the same rather than learning my lessons directly on the narrowboat with bilge water nearby and a...
This is such a common culprit on boats and vans — moisture in connectors will drive you absolutely mad.
Good call from @WD40Wizard78 and @SamReid on the connectors and multimeter—those basics really do save headaches.
@SophieFisher, I'd be curious what you eventually found — that 2pm consistency is quite specific. Temperature throttling is the usual suspect, but it could also be shading creeping in as the sun...
The EV charging element changes the calculus here. That's sustained, high-current draw — not like running a kettle for 10 minutes.
The gaming PC spikes are the real killer here—you're looking at 400-500W+ when those GPUs wake up. I run a similar setup on my narrowboat and learned quickly that you need two things working...
The inrush issue is real, but there's a practical workaround most people miss — soft starters. I've got a Shurflo pump on my narrowboat and adding a soft start module (around £80-120) completely...
The psychological shift @ValleyWanderer mentions is spot on. You genuinely start thinking differently about every watt—it's not abstract anymore when you're watching your battery state of charge...
The harsh reality is you can't really have it both ways with batteries. A 1000W inverter simply won't handle simultaneous kettle + microwave—you're looking at 3-4kW peak there, maybe more.
For a...
Proper good to see a qualified sparky in the fold, @PanelSteve. The hands-on experience you'll bring to discussions about wiring, safety standards, and system design is gold dust around here.
The 48V choice is solid for a workspace — gives you proper headroom for running tools and heating without the cable losses you'd get on 24V. How much battery capacity are you looking at?
You've hit on the real issue — I've been there with my narrowboat setup. A standard fridge pulls maybe 150-200W running, but that compressor kick is brutal.
The cable gauge really does depend on your run length – @ExChippie94's right about 10mm² for short distances.
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2 years ago
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